DOG FOSTER GUIDE
WElcome to fostering
Dear Foster volunteer,
You are about to embark on a memorable live-saving adventure! Thank you for opening your home and heart to a dog. Offering your home as a safe place for a dog until their forever home is found can be a very rewarding experience.
There are several requirements to foster a dog. If the requirements included in the following section do not work well with your current schedule, please let us know. We can help you find a foster situation that will work best for you!
You are about to embark on a memorable live-saving adventure! Thank you for opening your home and heart to a dog. Offering your home as a safe place for a dog until their forever home is found can be a very rewarding experience.
There are several requirements to foster a dog. If the requirements included in the following section do not work well with your current schedule, please let us know. We can help you find a foster situation that will work best for you!
Are You a Foster Candidate?
TIME
Are you able to devote the required time daily?
Are you able to transport your foster animal to appropriate locations for wellness exams, vaccinations and any unseen emergencies?
SPACE
Are you able to separate your foster animals from your household pets for at least two weeks to protect them from illnesses and allow for proper adjustment period?
Are you able to handle cleaning procedures such as washing hands after every encounter and cleaning and disinfecting the dogs’ quarters routinely?
Are you able to handle any potential home damage (carpet, clothing, and/or furniture) associated with animals?
CARE
Are you prepared to handle sickness or possible death of your foster animal?
Are you able to emotionally handle letting go of the foster animal after becoming attached once their foster period is over?
Are you able to handle the potential of foster animals carrying illness that could affect your household animals / family?
If you’re able to do all these things, then you are ready to become a foster parent!
Are you able to devote the required time daily?
Are you able to transport your foster animal to appropriate locations for wellness exams, vaccinations and any unseen emergencies?
SPACE
Are you able to separate your foster animals from your household pets for at least two weeks to protect them from illnesses and allow for proper adjustment period?
Are you able to handle cleaning procedures such as washing hands after every encounter and cleaning and disinfecting the dogs’ quarters routinely?
Are you able to handle any potential home damage (carpet, clothing, and/or furniture) associated with animals?
CARE
Are you prepared to handle sickness or possible death of your foster animal?
Are you able to emotionally handle letting go of the foster animal after becoming attached once their foster period is over?
Are you able to handle the potential of foster animals carrying illness that could affect your household animals / family?
If you’re able to do all these things, then you are ready to become a foster parent!
different types of dogs needing foster
HSMC does not currently have a physical shelter location so all HSMC pets are located at foster homes. So there is no reason a dog is in foster besides they are waiting for their forever home. Before opening your home for a foster dog begin thinking of the basic categories of dogs and what best suits your lifestyle.
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Senior dog
Thanks for your interest in caring for a senior dog! its a big commitment and is not a job for everyone. It takes a considerable amount of time, dedication, caring and patience as well as adaptability and ability to deal with difficulties. Providing a wonderful home for an aging dog is a rewarding experience you will never forget.
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getting ready
PREPARING THE HOUSE
NEEDED SUPPLIES HSMC will provide you with virtually all the supplies you will need. Supplies that you may wish to obtain include CRATE: FOOD: WATER BOWL: Please use ceramic/porcelain or stainless steel bowls and NOT plastic, as plastic is difficult to disinfect due to its porosity. The heavier the bowl the better to not tip over. FOOD BOWLS: . BLANKETS AND BEDDING: Microfleece is the best material for small kittens. It’s soft, like Mom’s fur and it traps their own body heat. There are many inexpensive micro fleece baby blankets and bedding material out there. We will provide towels and if available, blankets. CLEANING, BATHING, DISINFECTING: |
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provide STIMULATION
Playing with your foster dog
Play is not only fun and exercise for your foster dog, but its a tool for setting boundaries and building relationships. Doing it the safely and correctly it can be a great stepping stone to getting your foster dog ready for adoption.
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Enrichment
Providing your foster dog with enrichment activities, is very important but keeping your activities safe and secure is even more important so always make sure you are comfortable and confident in every activity you are doing with your foster dog. Always contact your foster mentor before you take your dog to a unfamiliar location so they can help you decide if thats the best decision for your dog at this point in your foster journey.
Many dogs love experiencing new things but some dogs can be shy and overwhelmed by too many experiences too quickly. |
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Fostering strays
HSMC holds stray animals for 5 days before being placed up for adoption. Once the pet is off of stray hold they can become spayed and neutered and be adopted out. All dogs are adopted out fully vaccinated, microchipped, and spayed/neutered.
medical concerns
diarrhea
Diarrhea can be caused by several factors, including stress, change of diet, poor diet, eating garbage, parasites and viruses. If your foster dog has diarrhea and has no other symptoms, rule out change of diet by feeding your dog 2 cups of cooked rice mixed with boiled chicken for a day or two, and then reintroduce dry kibble.
Provide plenty of fresh water since diarrhea can cause dehydration. To check for dehydration, pull the skin up over the shoulder blades. If it snaps back quickly, the dog is not dehydrated. If the skin goes down slowly, then the dog is dehydrated and needs fluids. Call your Coordinator immediately if you suspect your foster is dehydrated. |
Kennel Cough
Because kennel cough is contagious, infected dogs should not be around other dogs until they're over their cough. If you have a dog at home and plan to foster a dog with kennel cough, we have found that if your own dog is healthy and has been vaccinated annually, then he will most likely not get sick.
Fleas
Fleas are small parasitic bugs that seek a host animal, and can cause severe itching, discomfort, and anemia. Puppies' bodies are so small and at an increased risk of flea anemia due to the loss of blood from the fleas feeding. For this reason, flea infestations should be taken seriously and treatment should not be delayed. HSMC always wants to make sure all of our animals in our foster program and flea free at all times.
Puppies
Puppies should receive a flea bath at the first sign of fleas. Check the puppy for fleas by combing through the fur with your fingers or with a flea comb. You may see active, live fleas which will appear as fast-moving, small, dark brown bugs that quickly dart through the fur, seeking refuge in the puppies face, belly, and armpits. Look for flea dirt, which is a sign that the puppy has fleas--even if you don't see live bugs. Flea dirt looks like small black flecks of dirt, and will be present along the base of the fur. If fleas or flea dirt are present, treat the puppy for fleas right away.
Treat Fleas With A Dish Soap BathA gentle bath with dish soap will help to kill the live fleas and wash away the larva and flea dirt. Here are some tips for providing a puppy with a dish soap bath:
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Topical flea medication
HSMC topical flea medication of choice is a prescription flea medication called REVOLUTION. All animals large enough to receive revolution are treated upon intake at HSMC. If your foster cat is living with you longer than thirty days make sure a second treatment is administered. Contact your foster coordinator for supplies.
What does revolution cover
-Fleas
-Heartworms
-Ear Mites
-Saroptic Mange
-Ticks
What does revolution cover
-Fleas
-Heartworms
-Ear Mites
-Saroptic Mange
-Ticks
Ear Mites
PREVENTATIVE TREATMENT: All cats large enough on intake through HSMC are given REVOLUTION. This topical flea medication treats and controls ear mites. However dirt, wax and residue from the ear mites will still be present in the ears.
CLEAN:Use an ear cleansing solution to remove as much of the dirt, wax, and residue as possible. Do so by placing a few drops of the solution into the ear, then gently rubbing the ear for 10-15 seconds to allow the solution to break up the discharge. Use a dry cotton ball or gauze pad to gently swab the moist residue out of the ear and repeat as needed.
ADDITIONAL TREATMENT:Signs the ear mites are still alive and need continued treatment are scratching at ears, or shaking head from side to side.
WHAT ARE EARMITES: Ear mites are a microscopic pest that is transmitted from animal to animal, and they can cause a dark, waxy residue that resembles coffee grounds in the ear canal. Though ear mites are extremely small, their movement can be perceived with magnification.
CLEAN:Use an ear cleansing solution to remove as much of the dirt, wax, and residue as possible. Do so by placing a few drops of the solution into the ear, then gently rubbing the ear for 10-15 seconds to allow the solution to break up the discharge. Use a dry cotton ball or gauze pad to gently swab the moist residue out of the ear and repeat as needed.
ADDITIONAL TREATMENT:Signs the ear mites are still alive and need continued treatment are scratching at ears, or shaking head from side to side.
WHAT ARE EARMITES: Ear mites are a microscopic pest that is transmitted from animal to animal, and they can cause a dark, waxy residue that resembles coffee grounds in the ear canal. Though ear mites are extremely small, their movement can be perceived with magnification.
TRacking health
weighing cats and kittens
poop
appetite
energy and excercise
Body language
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Getting ready for adoption
Web Presence
Once your dogs status changes to "ADOPTABLE" in pawlytics, make sure to write a biography about his personality, this goes under "description" in their pawlytics profile and will show up on petfinder and on the HSMC website. A good bio makes a big difference in the number of calls the dog gets, so be descriptive! Try to include things like:
If the dog has some bad habits, this can be discussed during the first phone conversation. The bio should generate interest, not turn people away. We don’t want to mislead people; however we really try to focus on the positive. If you have questions about what to include or not include in your dogs bio contact your foster coordinator or adoption coordinator.
Photos
Make sure to add great photos of your dog to their pawlytics profile. If you would like help uploading a video contact your adoptions coordinator.
If you need help taking photos of your foster dog, reach out on the HSMC volunteers page and see if any of your fellow HSMC volunteers can help out!
Once your dogs status changes to "ADOPTABLE" in pawlytics, make sure to write a biography about his personality, this goes under "description" in their pawlytics profile and will show up on petfinder and on the HSMC website. A good bio makes a big difference in the number of calls the dog gets, so be descriptive! Try to include things like:
- What does the dog like to do? (play fetch, go for walks, etc.)
- Is he a cuddler?
- Does he have experience with other animals and children?
If the dog has some bad habits, this can be discussed during the first phone conversation. The bio should generate interest, not turn people away. We don’t want to mislead people; however we really try to focus on the positive. If you have questions about what to include or not include in your dogs bio contact your foster coordinator or adoption coordinator.
Photos
Make sure to add great photos of your dog to their pawlytics profile. If you would like help uploading a video contact your adoptions coordinator.
If you need help taking photos of your foster dog, reach out on the HSMC volunteers page and see if any of your fellow HSMC volunteers can help out!
DAY ONE
NEW FOSTERS
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introductions
INTRODUCING STRANGERS
Introducing your foster dog to a stranger in your home can be fun and easy; some dogs however might be a little shy or get over excited. With a little training and patience, introductions can be positive and allow your foster dog to make a great first impression. This short video, on introducing your foster dog to a stranger at your house, will demonstrate easy and ultimately rewarding steps to help your foster dog greet new people in a safe and relaxed manner.
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dog to dog introductions
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children and foster dogs
Keeping interactions between foster dogs and children safe
Having a family and fostering a dog can be a fun experience for both you and your children. Of upmost importance to any foster family is keeping the interactions between your children and your foster dog safe, calm and happy.This can be easy to do by following a few simple guidelines and educating your children on how to properly interact with your new foster dog. This short video can get you started on learning how to do all this, and more. |
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Dog to cat introductions
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The first two weeks
The most important phase that dogs go through when getting out of the shelter and when first in their foster or adoptive home is the “Decompression Phase.” Any change in a dog’s environment or routine will cause some level of stress and it’s our job as their guardian to be patient and guide them through this time…however long it takes.
“People want the dog to fit in and often make the biggest mistakes during this period. They will give the dog too much love, too much training, too much attention…everything that’s too much is TOO MUCH. After the experience of living at the shelter the best thing a dog can get upon getting out is space. Space that will allow the dog to decompress from the emotional stress that dogs incur at our shelter. During that phase they should NOT be bothered too much, NOT be engaged too much and NOT too much should be expected of them. Especially for the first few days…allow the dog to SEE what his new life will be without expecting him to Live this LIFE” ~~~~Robert Cabral- The Decompression Phase- Bound Angels~~~~
All dogs need structure/rules/boundaries for them to feel safe. They thrive on predictable routines. The greatest form of affection we can show our new dog is to fulfill their needs: Their need to eat, their need to have clean water, their need to potty outside, their need to migrate/walk and their need to have a cozy/soft/warm crate (their den) to rest in. Of course you can pet your new dog; you can give him treats and a toy to chew. BUT it’s important to keep all of these things to a minimum for at least the first few weeks.
Imagine you just started a new job. You walk through the huge entrance to the building and you’re standing in the lobby trying to figure out which way to go. You don’t know where your office is. You don’t know where the break room is. You don’t know where the rest room is. And, you don’t know any of your coworkers. You feel lost/overwhelmed/nervous/anxious. Now imagine that same new job BUT as you walk into the building, a coworker walks up you and calmly says “Hi, welcome to XYZ Enterprise, follow me and I will show you around.” They give you the tour, they give you a welcome packet and they show you to your office. How much more relaxed and comfortable would you be in the second scenario? Your co-worker made you feel comfortable by guiding you and giving you information. NOT by hugging you or showering you with affection. That’s exactly the relaxed comfortable feeling you need to create for your foster or newly adopted dog.
“People want the dog to fit in and often make the biggest mistakes during this period. They will give the dog too much love, too much training, too much attention…everything that’s too much is TOO MUCH. After the experience of living at the shelter the best thing a dog can get upon getting out is space. Space that will allow the dog to decompress from the emotional stress that dogs incur at our shelter. During that phase they should NOT be bothered too much, NOT be engaged too much and NOT too much should be expected of them. Especially for the first few days…allow the dog to SEE what his new life will be without expecting him to Live this LIFE” ~~~~Robert Cabral- The Decompression Phase- Bound Angels~~~~
All dogs need structure/rules/boundaries for them to feel safe. They thrive on predictable routines. The greatest form of affection we can show our new dog is to fulfill their needs: Their need to eat, their need to have clean water, their need to potty outside, their need to migrate/walk and their need to have a cozy/soft/warm crate (their den) to rest in. Of course you can pet your new dog; you can give him treats and a toy to chew. BUT it’s important to keep all of these things to a minimum for at least the first few weeks.
- When your dog first arrives, before they even go inside your home, take them for a 20-40 min. walk, depending on their health.
- When you get back to your home, keep your dog leashed and walk them calmly through the front door and while keeping him leashed, walk around your home. NO FREE ROAM.
- Once you have done a quick tour with the dog, take him to his crate area, allow him some water and practice the crate exercises (Crate Training Doc in the files). The crate should be in an area of the house that is neither isolated nor in the middle of everything. You want your new dog to observe you and your family without feeling stressed and overwhelmed.
- With the dog still leashed, walk him to the door that you will be using to take him out to potty and take him out. Bring him back in and put him in his crate. Let him rest. It’s important to establish the routine and structure of the crate straight away.
- After some time, leash the dog and remove him from his crate, hand feed him his meal (great bonding/engagement exercise) and then go outside for a potty break.
- Then back inside for some “out of the crate time” (still leashed). NO rough play, NO wrestling, NO couch, NO beds, NO laps, NO kissy face, NO free roam through the house, NO interactions with any other pets, NO visits from your friends and family, NO trips to Petco and No car rides (other than to the vet). The goal for these first few weeks is to help your dog learn the structure/rules/boundaries of your home.
- After free time, its back outside (still leashed) for potty and then back in for some crate rest.
- Once you put your new dog in his crate, ignore him. Let him rest.
- The first few weeks for our new foster or adopted dog should be very simple. Walks/hand feeding/access to water/potty breaks/limited free time in the house/crate time…repeat.
Imagine you just started a new job. You walk through the huge entrance to the building and you’re standing in the lobby trying to figure out which way to go. You don’t know where your office is. You don’t know where the break room is. You don’t know where the rest room is. And, you don’t know any of your coworkers. You feel lost/overwhelmed/nervous/anxious. Now imagine that same new job BUT as you walk into the building, a coworker walks up you and calmly says “Hi, welcome to XYZ Enterprise, follow me and I will show you around.” They give you the tour, they give you a welcome packet and they show you to your office. How much more relaxed and comfortable would you be in the second scenario? Your co-worker made you feel comfortable by guiding you and giving you information. NOT by hugging you or showering you with affection. That’s exactly the relaxed comfortable feeling you need to create for your foster or newly adopted dog.
grooming/ bath
Your foster dog may smell, have fleas or have skin concerns and you may want to give them a bath. While we encourage providing your foster dog with "normal" experiences we want to make sure activities like baths are provided after dogs have had time to decompress and are always kept positive and safe for both you and the dog.
Watch this video with some tips on how to give a dog a bath and make sure to contact your foster mentor if you want help regarding your foster dogs individual situation. Make sure to log the bath experience in your dogs profile so new owners can have record of their behavior and your findings during this activity! Brushing in an important part of home husbandry care that helps keep your foster pets coat and skin healthy. It also allows you oversight over the foster pet’s entire body, allowing you to monitor for lumps, bumps, and cuts. Finally, the brushing process can also be a meaningful way to help you bond with your foster dog. In this short video, learn the best way to brush your dog or cat that makes the process fun and easy for both you and your foster pet.
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Training
As with any and all training, the keys to success are; PATIENCE, CONSISTENCY AND CLEAR COMMUNICATION.
crate Training
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LEASH TRAINING
Not only do leashes help keep your foster dogs safe on walks they are also wonderful management and training tools. Used properly they provide an easy and accessible way to train your foster dog indoors and out, resulting in a far more adoptable dog.
In this short class, learn the best tips for training your foster dog to walk properly on leash as well as a few other training scenarios leashes come in handy for. LEASH REACTIVITY
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House training
When bringing home your new foster dog, you may be faced with the challenge of teaching housetraining skills to him/her. All dogs are different and some will pick it up very quickly while others will take longer. Many times, once the new dog knows what door leads outside and he/she is on a schedule of food/water/potty breaks, housetraining is complete within a few days. Schedules are important, structure is important, limited freedom is important but most of all, PATIENCE is important.
- Set up a feeding/watering schedule. Feed two-three times a day depending on the dogs needs and allow access to clean water. Feed the last meal at least 2-3 hours before bed and pick all water up 2 hours before bed and/or before you leave for work.
- Take the dog out to potty when they wake up, after they eat, after they drink, after any play in the house and if they haven’t been out in a while.
- Use the same door to out for potty every time. Leash the dog up and head outside.
- Potty breaks are short, 5-10 minutes tops. Potty breaks are NOT walks or play time. Potty breaks are just that…potty breaks.
- If the dog goes potty in 5-10 minutes, praise him/her and allow the dog to walk around a bit longer BEFORE heading back inside. Dogs are super smart. If you head back inside immediately following the dog going potty, they will soon realize that all the fun stops as soon as they go. The extra time outside after they potty is a little reward for them complying and going outside.
- After going potty, bring the dog back in and give them some “free” time in the house (at this point in your dogs’ time with you, they should still be wearing a collar and dragging a leash around). Then crate him/her.
- If the dog does NOT go potty in the 5-10 minutes time frame, bring he/she back in and CRATE THE DOG. NO FREE ROAM. Wait 15 minutes and try again. Repeating until the dog goes potty.
- If you catch your dog beginning to go potty inside, interrupt them by clapping your hands or saying “Eh-Eh” and calmly lead them outside.
- NEVER SCOLD! For accidents in the house. ANY accident inside is our fault. We either didn’t follow the feeding/watering schedule or we didn’t crate the dog when they didn’t go potty or we missed their “sign” that they needed to go. Dogs’ don’t know that going potty inside is “bad”. When we scold them for going potty inside, in their mind we are scolding them for going potty…period. We run the risk of making the dog afraid of going potty in front of us, ever. The dog that is scolded for going potty inside is the dog that “just won’t go” outside and sneaks away in the house to go potty when we aren’t looking. They are afraid to go in front of us for fear of being reprimanded.
- Until the dog is completely housetrained manage their freedom in the house. Crate, leash or tether them.
- BE PATIENT… accidents will happen. Clean them up and move on. BE CONSISTENT. Follow the food/water schedule that works best for the individual dog. Once you have a schedule, stick with it.
Seperation anxiety
Separation anxiety can occur in any dog, in any breed, with any background/history and at any age. Rescued dogs, shelter dogs and dogs who have been bounced around from home to home often show signs of SA (Separation Anxiety) stemming from the lack of consistency in their lives and all the stress they have felt. Once dogs are in our homes, the typical reasons for SA to appear or to escalate are: giving comfort to a nervous/insecure/stressed out dog, being excited and emotional when we come and go, allowing our dogs to follow us everywhere and be near us all the time (the Velcro Dog) and the big ones … LACK OF OVERALL RULES/BOUNDARIES/STRUCTURE and TOO MUCH UNEARNED AFFECTION. It’s important to realize that SA is not the problem but rather a symptom of the bigger issues listed above.
While it may be difficult for us to deal with the barking/whining and destruction that is often the outcome of dogs with SA, imagine what it’s like for the dog. If a dog is exhibiting signs of SA, it means they are stressed and anxious and have no skills to cope with those feelings. Their brains are not calm and they are feeling panicked. It’s an awful feeling for them, just like having panic attacks is awful for us. They need to release the buildup of stress and unless we teach them how to cope with being alone/independent, they will figure out a way to do it on their own. Barking, whining and being destructive is an easy way for them to accomplish an “anxiety dump”. It’s our job, as our dogs’ guardians, to help them cope with our comings and goings and to teach them to learn to exist without us always by their side. We need to create a less dramatic contrast between when we are home and when are gone. The best way to do that is to have a balance between affection/love and rules/structure.
We can’t expect a dog who has free access to their humans all day in the form of couch privileges, affection whenever they want and following us around wherever we go to be able to “flip the switch” and cope when we leave. Creating a “calm mind” in our dogs’ is not difficult but it takes time, consistency and patience. Like all training, helping a dog who has SA is a process and because all dogs are individuals, time frames for success will vary.
Starting our dogs off on the right foot is the easiest way to curb SA and even prevent it from happening. When bringing a new foster/adopted dog into our home, it is crucial to set the tone for living in our home the moment you walk through the door.
We can’t expect a dog who has free access to their humans all day in the form of couch privileges, affection whenever they want and following us around wherever we go to be able to “flip the switch” and cope when we leave. Creating a “calm mind” in our dogs’ is not difficult but it takes time, consistency and patience. Like all training, helping a dog who has SA is a process and because all dogs are individuals, time frames for success will vary.
Starting our dogs off on the right foot is the easiest way to curb SA and even prevent it from happening. When bringing a new foster/adopted dog into our home, it is crucial to set the tone for living in our home the moment you walk through the door.
- Walk them calmly into your home. NO unleashing and letting them have free roam. Too much freedom is overwhelming to new dogs. Keep a collar and leash on the dog when they are “free” in the house. Having them drag a leash around will allow you to guide them away from anything they shouldn’t be near and guide them where you want them to go.
- NO COUCH. NO BED. NO LAPS. These are privileges that they have not earned. It has NOTHING to do with being the boss. It has to do with setting boundaries and teaching our dogs to exist independent of us.
- Don’t allow your dog to follow you everywhere. Follow the crate training guidelines and put the dog into the crate or place a dog bed away from where you are and guide the dog onto the bed. If they get up to follow you, use the leash to guide them back. Repeat as many times as needed until the dog is staying on the designated spot.
- If you work from home or are home all day it’s even more important that you teach your dog to cope without you around. Crate the dog for few hours every day. Create a routine of crate, potty times and feeding. DON’T allow the dog to go in and out whenever they want. DON’T be your dogs’ butler. It’s more challenging to stick to schedules when you are home all day, but it’s exactly what your dog needs in order to avoid developing SA.
- Create clear and consistent routines. Crate time, potty time, meal time and limited free time. Dogs thrive on routines and knowing what is going to happen and when. Routines make them feel safe and decrease their anxiety.
- Limit physical affection. Spoiling our new dogs with oodles of unearned and excessive affection doesn’t offer a feeling of security and safety to them. Instead it nurtures unbalanced/anxious states of mind. Our new dogs only need a few things to make them feel safe and secure. 1. A crate and comfy bed. 2. One or two toys to chew in the crate to pass the time. 3. Food and water. 4. Access to outside to potty. 5. Occasional praise and petting from us when the dog is quiet and calm.
- Don’t allow your dog to invade your personal space and “demand” attention.
- If bark collars are necessary, remember that they are simply a band aid for the problem and it’s important to help our dogs learn to self-calm and create a state of mind that can cope with our absence.
- DON’T purchase bark collars from Petco or Petsmart. They are not quality products. Purchase collars from Dogtra or E Collar Technologies. DON’T use the auto setting, this setting might create a corrections cycle that will freak the dog out and cause them to panic and do more harm than good. Instead, find the level that works for the individual dog and set it on that. Test out the collar by setting it and leaving the room, making sure the dog does not become freaked out when the collar correction happens. Make sure to read the instructions that come with the collars for safety and to make sure you see the results you want.
- DON'T rely on the bark collar like a crutch. Put in the work with establishing rules/boundaries/structure and balancing it with affection. The goal is a dog with a calm state of mind who can cope with life without stressing out.
- Make your comings and goings uneventful and unemotional. Simply guide the dog into their crate and say “bye” or “see you later”, in a neutral tone. That’s it. Not “Mommy will be back soon, love you so much!! Be a good dog! Bye-bye sweet pea!!!”
- And when you come home, ignore your dog. Don’t talk to them, don’t even let them out of their crate for 10-15 min. Put your bags down, take off your coat, check the mail etc.. Only when the dog is calm do you follow the crate guidelines for getting the dog out of the crate. Once they are out of the crate, there is no reason to pet them or talk to them. Take them out to potty and let them completely settle down before you engage with them.
- SA is as difficult on our dogs as it on us, if not more. The greatest gift we can give our dogs is to teach them to be calm, independent companions whose calm state of mind allows them to cope and exist in our crazy world.
jumping
Mouthing
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safety
Riding in the Car
Most dogs LOVE riding in a car, and chances are you’ll be taking your foster dog on a car trip someday. Your biggest responsibility is to keep your canine passenger safe. Being prepared, and taking a few easy steps will go a long way to keeping everyone happy, comfortable, and out of harm’s way. |
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