Cat Foster Guide
WElcome to fostering
Dear Foster volunteer,
You are about to embark on a memorable live-saving adventure! Thank you for opening your home and heart to orphan kittens. Kittens younger than eight weeks old are the most at-risk population in our community.
Fostering orphaned kittens is a rewarding process that saves hundreds of lives in our community each year, and we could not do it without you! In this manual, you will find helpful tips to ensure success. Orphaned kittens require consistent love and attention that is difficult to provide in a shelter environment. These kittens are typically placed in foster homes until they are big enough to undergo spay/neuter surgery at 2 lbs or roughly 2 months of age. We prefer fosters to care for more than one kitten at a time to help promote socialization and normal behavioral growth. When kittens are unable to have appropriate social interaction with other kittens it can stunt proper socialization and lead to behavioral problems. Multiple kittens are not only fun, they can also self-entertain.
There are several requirements to be the perfect foster for this type of animal. If the requirements included in the following section do not work well with your current schedule, please let us know. We can help you find a foster situation that will work best for you!
You are about to embark on a memorable live-saving adventure! Thank you for opening your home and heart to orphan kittens. Kittens younger than eight weeks old are the most at-risk population in our community.
Fostering orphaned kittens is a rewarding process that saves hundreds of lives in our community each year, and we could not do it without you! In this manual, you will find helpful tips to ensure success. Orphaned kittens require consistent love and attention that is difficult to provide in a shelter environment. These kittens are typically placed in foster homes until they are big enough to undergo spay/neuter surgery at 2 lbs or roughly 2 months of age. We prefer fosters to care for more than one kitten at a time to help promote socialization and normal behavioral growth. When kittens are unable to have appropriate social interaction with other kittens it can stunt proper socialization and lead to behavioral problems. Multiple kittens are not only fun, they can also self-entertain.
There are several requirements to be the perfect foster for this type of animal. If the requirements included in the following section do not work well with your current schedule, please let us know. We can help you find a foster situation that will work best for you!
Are You a Foster Kitten Candidate?
TIME
Are you able to devote time multiple times throughout the day and night?
Are you able to spend extended periods of time observing and socializing your kittens?
Are you able to transport your foster animal to appropriate locations for wellness exams, vaccinations and any unseen emergencies?
SPACE
Are you able to separate your foster animals from your household pets for at least two weeks to protect them from illnesses and allow for proper adjustment period?
Are you able to handle cleaning procedures such as washing hands after every encounter and cleaning and disinfecting the kittens’ quarters routinely?
Are you able to handle any potential home damage (carpet, clothing, and/or furniture) associated with animals?
CARE
Are you prepared to handle sickness or possible death of your foster animal?
Are you able to emotionally handle letting go of the foster animal after becoming attached once their foster period is over?
Are you able to handle the potential of foster animals carrying illness that could affect your household animals / family?
If you’re able to do all these things, then you are ready to become a foster parent!
Are you able to devote time multiple times throughout the day and night?
Are you able to spend extended periods of time observing and socializing your kittens?
Are you able to transport your foster animal to appropriate locations for wellness exams, vaccinations and any unseen emergencies?
SPACE
Are you able to separate your foster animals from your household pets for at least two weeks to protect them from illnesses and allow for proper adjustment period?
Are you able to handle cleaning procedures such as washing hands after every encounter and cleaning and disinfecting the kittens’ quarters routinely?
Are you able to handle any potential home damage (carpet, clothing, and/or furniture) associated with animals?
CARE
Are you prepared to handle sickness or possible death of your foster animal?
Are you able to emotionally handle letting go of the foster animal after becoming attached once their foster period is over?
Are you able to handle the potential of foster animals carrying illness that could affect your household animals / family?
If you’re able to do all these things, then you are ready to become a foster parent!
Types of Foster Kittens
For the most part, kittens in the foster care program are those who have not yet reached the 2-pound minimum weight required to undergo spay/neuter surgery prior to adoption. There are some differences in the types of kittens needing foster care.
BOTTLE BABIES
These are orphaned neonatal kittens ranging in age from 1 day to 4 weeks old without a mother cat to nurse from. They need to be bottle-fed every 3 to 4 hours around the clock for the first 3 weeks; less often from 4 weeks and on. They need to be burped, and stimulated to urinate and defecate after each feeding. They also need to be weighed, and kept clean and warm.
MOTHERS AND KITTENS
These kittens may range from 1 day old and older but have their mother to care for them and nurse from. This foster will involve primarily caring for the mother cat until the kittens are about 5 weeks old. Around this time mom begins to wean the kittens and they start eating food which you will provide, on their own. Ideally, mom is kept with her kittens until they are 8 weeks old, which benefits the kittens social skill development.
Here are some great videos to watch if you are setting up for a tame mom and kittens or a spicy, feral mom and kittens.
Here are some great videos to watch if you are setting up for a tame mom and kittens or a spicy, feral mom and kittens.
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WEIGHT GAINERS
It usually takes kittens about 2 months (8 weeks) to reach the 2 pound minimum weight for spay/neuter surgery. So, this could be as short as a 2-week foster commitment. They are eating on their own, usually have good litter box habits and have learned to clean themselves. However, this is also the time they are transitioning from formula to food and may have gastrointestinal problems leading to diarrhea. Younger kittens in this group are often messy eaters too, requiring frequent cleaning.
Spicy KITTENS
Under Socialized Kittens
Only with the, persistence and dedication from excellent foster homes like yours can feral kittens get the socialization they need to become friendly, loving companions.
HSMC highly recommends the knowledge and expertise of Kitten Lady. Please check out this page on her website for lots of tips and tricks!
https://www.kittenlady.org/feral
Only with the, persistence and dedication from excellent foster homes like yours can feral kittens get the socialization they need to become friendly, loving companions.
HSMC highly recommends the knowledge and expertise of Kitten Lady. Please check out this page on her website for lots of tips and tricks!
https://www.kittenlady.org/feral
Ideally, kittens should be introduced to human handling between 2 and 7 weeks of age. If not, they will learn to fear human interaction. These un-socialized or feral kittens usually require intensive treatment due to a short window of time you have to convince them that human contact can be pleasurable. Unfortunately, not all un-socialized kittens come around to accepting human contact, no matter how much love and attention you give, and may not be adoptable.
getting ready
PREPARING THE KITTEN ROOM
Before you bring home your foster kittens, make sure that you have a suitable place for them to stay. A bathroom or small bedroom often works well. The kitten room should adhere to the following guidelines:
NEEDED SUPPLIES
HSMC will provide you with virtually all the supplies you will need. Supplies that you may wish to obtain include a digital scale for weighing kittens, an electrical kitten heating pad or warming disc, bedding and if necessary, enclosures.
CARRIER: An appropriate sized carrier will be provided to transport the fosters home and also to bring them back and forth for vetting. Please note that foster kittens MUST be transported in carriers at all times. Carriers may also be used as their “sleeping quarters” if there is sufficient room for all to stretch out and be comfy.
FOOD: You will be supplied with both dry and canned kitten food, and formula if needed. If, for whatever reason, your kittens don’t like the food provided we will provide you with an alternative diet. Any change in your foster’s diet may cause gastrointestinal problems, so feeding the same food consistently will help their digestive system. It’s also good to keep track of the type of food so we can inform adopters of the current diets. A mother cat is given the same dry and canned KITTEN food (rather than adult cat food) for extra nutrition while nursing. For orphaned newborns who need to be bottle-fed, we will provide you with kitten milk replacer (KMR) formula and bottles. Providing dry food at all times is recommended, plus feeding fresh canned food several times a day.
CAT LITTER: There are many types of litter available and they are not all safe for kittens to use. Clay clumping litter is very convenient, but if ingested in large amounts, can become solid inside a kitten and cause blockage. Most young kittens don’t eat litter, but some do. A safe alternative is a clumping litter made of wheat, and if ingested, is not dangerous. There are also safe non-clumping litters made from wood, paper or pine pellets. We will provide the safest litter for your kittens.
LITTER BOX: We can supply you with medium sized, plastic litter boxes. The recommendation is 1 box per cat, plus 1 extra. However, if your kittens are in a small room, 2 boxes, cleaned often, can be sufficient for your litter of 4 or more kittens.
WATER BOWL: Please use ceramic/porcelain or stainless steel bowls and NOT plastic, as plastic is difficult to disinfect due to its porosity. The heavier the bowl the better to not tip over.
FOOD BOWLS: For 2-3 kittens, one bowl of dry food, left out all the time, and for 4+ kittens, two bowls. It is best to have a separate dish per kitten for canned wet food to ensure that each kitten gets its fair share. Inevitably there is a food bully in the litter that may crowd out a less assertive sibling. If you have separate food bowls, you can observe which kitten is not getting enough food, and which kitten is hogging more than his share. Sometimes, separating, these kittens, will even out the food intake.
BLANKETS AND BEDDING: Microfleece is the best material for small kittens. It’s soft, like Mom’s fur and it traps their own body heat. There are many inexpensive micro fleece baby blankets and bedding material out there. We will provide towels and if available, blankets.
HEATING DEVICE: From 3-4 weeks of age and older, the floor temperature of the kitten’s environment should be as close to 70- 75°F. For younger ones, their sleeping environment should be closer to 85-90°F. In order to maintain this temperature, you will need a heating device, which we will supply if needed. It is important to always make sure there is a large enough area for the kittens to move off of the heating source as they may get too warm. Electrical heating pads (made for animals) on low heat or warming discs can be used. Either one needs to be covered or wrapped in a towel to safeguard kittens.
SCALE: We are not yet able to provide scales to our foster families, but keeping a record of kitten’s weight is very important. If you have a digital food scale at home, this would be very helpful and is particularly important for newborn kittens and those up to 4 weeks old. A weight gain of 3-4 ounces each week usually indicates these very young kittens are doing well.
CLEANING, BATHING, DISINFECTING: small, soft wash cloths, cosmetic rounds or sponges cut into small squares are great for simple wipes of food or eye goobers off of kitten’s face. For messier situations, some fragrance-free baby wipes work well. And if the kitten needs a butt bath or a full (body only) water immersion, fragrance-free baby or pet shampoo does the trick.
Before you bring home your foster kittens, make sure that you have a suitable place for them to stay. A bathroom or small bedroom often works well. The kitten room should adhere to the following guidelines:
NEEDED SUPPLIES
HSMC will provide you with virtually all the supplies you will need. Supplies that you may wish to obtain include a digital scale for weighing kittens, an electrical kitten heating pad or warming disc, bedding and if necessary, enclosures.
CARRIER: An appropriate sized carrier will be provided to transport the fosters home and also to bring them back and forth for vetting. Please note that foster kittens MUST be transported in carriers at all times. Carriers may also be used as their “sleeping quarters” if there is sufficient room for all to stretch out and be comfy.
FOOD: You will be supplied with both dry and canned kitten food, and formula if needed. If, for whatever reason, your kittens don’t like the food provided we will provide you with an alternative diet. Any change in your foster’s diet may cause gastrointestinal problems, so feeding the same food consistently will help their digestive system. It’s also good to keep track of the type of food so we can inform adopters of the current diets. A mother cat is given the same dry and canned KITTEN food (rather than adult cat food) for extra nutrition while nursing. For orphaned newborns who need to be bottle-fed, we will provide you with kitten milk replacer (KMR) formula and bottles. Providing dry food at all times is recommended, plus feeding fresh canned food several times a day.
CAT LITTER: There are many types of litter available and they are not all safe for kittens to use. Clay clumping litter is very convenient, but if ingested in large amounts, can become solid inside a kitten and cause blockage. Most young kittens don’t eat litter, but some do. A safe alternative is a clumping litter made of wheat, and if ingested, is not dangerous. There are also safe non-clumping litters made from wood, paper or pine pellets. We will provide the safest litter for your kittens.
LITTER BOX: We can supply you with medium sized, plastic litter boxes. The recommendation is 1 box per cat, plus 1 extra. However, if your kittens are in a small room, 2 boxes, cleaned often, can be sufficient for your litter of 4 or more kittens.
WATER BOWL: Please use ceramic/porcelain or stainless steel bowls and NOT plastic, as plastic is difficult to disinfect due to its porosity. The heavier the bowl the better to not tip over.
FOOD BOWLS: For 2-3 kittens, one bowl of dry food, left out all the time, and for 4+ kittens, two bowls. It is best to have a separate dish per kitten for canned wet food to ensure that each kitten gets its fair share. Inevitably there is a food bully in the litter that may crowd out a less assertive sibling. If you have separate food bowls, you can observe which kitten is not getting enough food, and which kitten is hogging more than his share. Sometimes, separating, these kittens, will even out the food intake.
BLANKETS AND BEDDING: Microfleece is the best material for small kittens. It’s soft, like Mom’s fur and it traps their own body heat. There are many inexpensive micro fleece baby blankets and bedding material out there. We will provide towels and if available, blankets.
HEATING DEVICE: From 3-4 weeks of age and older, the floor temperature of the kitten’s environment should be as close to 70- 75°F. For younger ones, their sleeping environment should be closer to 85-90°F. In order to maintain this temperature, you will need a heating device, which we will supply if needed. It is important to always make sure there is a large enough area for the kittens to move off of the heating source as they may get too warm. Electrical heating pads (made for animals) on low heat or warming discs can be used. Either one needs to be covered or wrapped in a towel to safeguard kittens.
SCALE: We are not yet able to provide scales to our foster families, but keeping a record of kitten’s weight is very important. If you have a digital food scale at home, this would be very helpful and is particularly important for newborn kittens and those up to 4 weeks old. A weight gain of 3-4 ounces each week usually indicates these very young kittens are doing well.
CLEANING, BATHING, DISINFECTING: small, soft wash cloths, cosmetic rounds or sponges cut into small squares are great for simple wipes of food or eye goobers off of kitten’s face. For messier situations, some fragrance-free baby wipes work well. And if the kitten needs a butt bath or a full (body only) water immersion, fragrance-free baby or pet shampoo does the trick.
Keeping your pets safe
Safeguarding all Animals
First and foremost, we want to protect the health of you, your resident pets and the foster kittens, so we need to prevent your pets from introducing disease to the foster kittens and the fosters introducing diseases to your pets. There are even some diseases that can be transmitted to people, such as ringworm.
HSMC recommends that all foster volunteers keep their resident animals current on their vaccinations and flea meds. In addition, foster kittens MUST be separated from your resident pets for a minimum period of 2 weeks, which is a sufficient time for most incubating diseases to become apparent. However, we strongly recommend, that fosters be kept separate from your resident pets for the entire fostering period. Having a totally separate room for the fosters would be ideal.
Washing hands with soap and water should be practiced regularly, both before and after contact, with foster kittens. We are concerned with the health of ALL animals under your care. As thorough and careful as we try to be in our examinations of the foster kittens before sending them out, there is still a real risk of disease transmission. Hence the strong recommendation to keep your pets separated from the fosters. As a reminder, the Humane Society of Mason County cannot be responsible for the health of your resident pets.
Cleaning between litters of kittens is another precaution against the spread of disease. In between litters of kittens, your fostering room and all related foster kitten items will need to be sanitized before another litter is brought home. All surfaces should first be cleaned with a detergent (such as 409 or Dawn/water mixture) and then disinfected with a bleach solution (1 ounce bleach to 32 ounces water). Bleach is easily inactivated by organic debris, so cleaning first is imperative. Probably the best cleaner is Disinfectant Rescue, used by vets to kill most bacteria and viruses. It comes in liquid or wipes.
First and foremost, we want to protect the health of you, your resident pets and the foster kittens, so we need to prevent your pets from introducing disease to the foster kittens and the fosters introducing diseases to your pets. There are even some diseases that can be transmitted to people, such as ringworm.
HSMC recommends that all foster volunteers keep their resident animals current on their vaccinations and flea meds. In addition, foster kittens MUST be separated from your resident pets for a minimum period of 2 weeks, which is a sufficient time for most incubating diseases to become apparent. However, we strongly recommend, that fosters be kept separate from your resident pets for the entire fostering period. Having a totally separate room for the fosters would be ideal.
Washing hands with soap and water should be practiced regularly, both before and after contact, with foster kittens. We are concerned with the health of ALL animals under your care. As thorough and careful as we try to be in our examinations of the foster kittens before sending them out, there is still a real risk of disease transmission. Hence the strong recommendation to keep your pets separated from the fosters. As a reminder, the Humane Society of Mason County cannot be responsible for the health of your resident pets.
Cleaning between litters of kittens is another precaution against the spread of disease. In between litters of kittens, your fostering room and all related foster kitten items will need to be sanitized before another litter is brought home. All surfaces should first be cleaned with a detergent (such as 409 or Dawn/water mixture) and then disinfected with a bleach solution (1 ounce bleach to 32 ounces water). Bleach is easily inactivated by organic debris, so cleaning first is imperative. Probably the best cleaner is Disinfectant Rescue, used by vets to kill most bacteria and viruses. It comes in liquid or wipes.
DEtermining age & sex
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Determining your kittens age is important to understanding your kittens needs. While kittens grow very quickly their needs at different stages change drastically.
Newborn Physical appearance: Newborn kittens will have their eyes closed, their ears folded, and their umbilical cord attached. Their nose and paws may appear pink in color. At this age, they cannot hear or see; they can only navigate the world around them through scent and through seeking warmth and comfort.At 0-1 days, the umbilical cord will be attached and wet. At 1-5 days, the umbilical cord will be attached and dry. Around 4-5 days of age the kitten will naturally lose the umbilical cord. Never attempt to remove it manually; allow it to fall off on its own. Temperature: A newborn kitten will have a low temperature of 95-97 degrees, which will go up to 100 degrees over the course of the first week. During this time it is critical to provide a gentle heat source to keep the kitten warm and stable. The kitten's environment should be between 85 and 90 degrees at this time. Average newborn kitten weight: 2-6 ounces Newborn kitten care schedule: orphan newborns should be fed every 2 hours, including overnight. You may choose to syringe feed at this age, or to bottle feed. Newborns will also need to be stimulated to go to the bathroom.Newborns do not have a gag reflex. For this reason, it is essential to feed very slowly and with extreme caution. One WeekPhysical appearance: One week old kittens will have closed eyes, but no umbilical cord. Around 7 days, the ear canals will slowly begin to open. Around 8-12 days, the eyes will slowly begin to open. Never attempt to pry open a kitten's eyes; let them open naturally. All kittens will be born with baby blue eyes, which will change to their adult eye color as they age. Temperature: One week old kittens cannot regulate body temperature. During this time it is critical to provide a gentle heat source to keep the kitten warm and stable. The kitten's environment should be roughly 85 degrees at this time. Average one week old kitten weight: 6-9 ounces By one week of age, the kitten should have doubled her birth weight. One week old kitten care schedule: orphans of this age should be bottle fed every 2-3 hours, including overnight. One week old kittens will also need to be stimulated to go to the bathroom. Two WeeksPhysical appearance: At two weeks of age, kittens' eyes will be fully open and baby blue. Her vision will still be developing. The ear canals will be open and the ears will be small and rounded, like a baby bear cub. Two week old kittens will be wobbly on their feet and attempting to develop coordination and movement. Temperature: Two week old kittens cannot regulate body temperature. During this time it is critical to provide a gentle heat source to keep the kitten warm and stable. The kitten's environment should be around 80 degrees at this time. Medical: At two weeks, it is safe to begin dewormer for the kitten. HSMC foster coordinator will supply you with Pyrantel a very safe dewormer for kittens. Average two week old kitten weight: 9-12 ounces. Two week old kitten care schedule: orphans of this age should be bottle fed every 3-4 hours, including overnight. Two week old kittens will also need to be stimulated to go to the bathroom. Three WeeksPhysical appearance: At three weeks of age, a kitten's first teeth will begin to emerge. The tiny teeth at the front of the mouth, called the incisors, will start to come through the gums. Three week old kittens will have ears that point upwards, like a miniature cat. At this age, kittens will be walking, exploring their surroundings, and even beginning to explore the litter box. Temperature:Three week old kittens still require a heat source, but will be more active and may stray from it when not sleeping. The kitten's environment should be around 75 degrees at this time. Average three week old kitten weight: 12-15 ounces Three week old kitten care schedule: orphans of this age should be bottle fed every 4-5 hours, including overnight. Three week old kittens will be transitioning from being stimulated to go to the bathroom to learning how to use the litterbox. Four WeeksPhysical appearance: At four weeks of age, a kitten's teeth will continue to develop. The long tooth next to the incisors, called the canine teeth, will start to come through the gums. Four week old kittens will be confidently exploring and developing more coordination that allows them to walk, run, and even begin to play. Temperature:Continue providing a heat source for four week old kittens, although they will likely use it only when resting. The kitten's environment should stay comfortably warm and never colder than 70-75 degrees. Average four week old kitten weight: 13-16 ounces Four week old kitten care schedule: orphans of this age should be bottle fed every 5 hours, including overnight. Four week old kittens will generally be using the litter box. Five WeeksPhysical appearance:At five weeks of age, a kitten's teeth will continue to develop. The premolars will start to emerge, indicating that a kitten is ready to be introduced to weaning onto wet food. Weaning is a sensitive time in a kitten's life and should be handled with care; provide supplemental feeding and ensure that the kitten is maintaining a healthy weight and body condition. Average five week old kitten weight: 16-22 ounces Five week old kitten care schedule: orphans of this age, if healthy, may be introduced to weaning. Kittens should receive this care every 5-6 hours. If weaned, food and water should be provided at all times. Six WeeksPhysical appearance:At six weeks of age, a kitten's deciduous teeth will have fully emerged, and she will typically be perfecting her weaning onto wet food. Weaning is a sensitive time in a kitten's life and should be handled with care; provide supplemental feeding and ensure that the kitten is maintaining a healthy weight and body condition. Medical: Six weeks is a standard age for the kitten to receive her first FVRCP vaccine. HSMC foster coordinator can arrange to vaccinate the kittens in your home or arrange for a wellness exam with our veterinarian for vaccines. Average six week old kitten weight: 22-24 ounces Six week old kitten care schedule: Kittens should receive ample wet food if weaned. Provide access to water and food at all times. Seven WeeksPhysical appearance: At seven weeks, kittens will have all of their baby teeth. Most seven week old kittens will be fully weaned onto wet food. At this age, the adult eye color will begin to emerge. Kittens' eyes will change from baby blue to the eye color they will keep permanently. Kittens with grey, green, or yellow eyes are likely 7 weeks or older. Average seven week old kitten weight: 24-28 ounces Seven week old kitten care schedule: Kittens should receive ample wet food if weaned. Provide access to water and food at all times. Eight WeeksPhysical appearance: At eight weeks old, most kittens will be eating independently. Kittens of this age will have their permanent adult eye color. As your kittens are nearing 2 pounds update your foster coordinator to schedule their spay and neuter surgery so they can be placed up for adoption. Average eight week old kitten weight: 850-950 grams Eight week old kitten care schedule: Kittens should receive ample wet food. Provide access to water and food at all times. |
DETERMINING SEX
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Tracking Health
Tracking your kittens health is imperative that changes in weight, appetite or poop doesn't go unnoticed. Fill out the attached log sheet daily or per the instructions in your intro foster email.
LOG SHEET
LOG SHEET
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weighing cats and kittens
It's crucial to ensure that kittens are steadily gaining weight. Kittens can quickly become ill and have a loss of appetite or diarrhea resulting in weightloss. Keeping written notes ensures steady increases in weight are tracked. Constant weight loss can happen quickly and can be an initial sign of illness. Illness's resulting in weight loss can be very serious and even life threatening.
SCALE: We will provide a digital animal scale to all our foster families. Keeping a daily record of kitten’s weight is very important, especially for newborn kittens and those up to 4 weeks old. A weight gain of 3-4 ounces each week usually indicates these very young kittens are doing well. We will provide a form to fill out, or you can make your own.
poop
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When multiple kittens are using the same litter box, it may be necessary to spend time observing them to see who is having unusual stool. Use the chart below when describing your kittens stool on your log sheet.
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appetite
If you are suspicions one or multiple of your kittens is having an irregular appetite it may be necessary to sit and observe them and see if a call for more concern is warranted. Noting behaviors associated with meal time is important for behavioral notes for adoption bios as well. Kittens who appear to be disinterested in eating need close monitoring for other signs of illness.
energy
If you are observing your kitten becoming less active take notes and watch for other signs of illness or causes for concern. It's important to get to know your kittens average energy to be able to notice a change. Make sure to understand differences between lack of energy and decreased activity level.
Taking your cats temperature
A drop in temperature can greatly affect a kitten or puppy who is between 0-4 weeks of age!
Temperature decrease can cause the heart rate to go down, and the stomach and intestines to slow down as well. |
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MEdical Concerns
SIGNS OF ILLNESS
Kittens do a good job of masking when they don’t feel well, so determining if a foster kitten is under the weather will require diligent observation of the kittens’ daily activity and appetite levels. Be aware that kittens act differently at different ages. For example, a healthy two-week-old kitten will sleep often and get up only to nurse, whereas a healthy six-week-old kitten should have a lot of energy. If you have any questions about the health of your foster kittens, please contact the foster coordinator, who will be happy to answer your questions.
Kittens do a good job of masking when they don’t feel well, so determining if a foster kitten is under the weather will require diligent observation of the kittens’ daily activity and appetite levels. Be aware that kittens act differently at different ages. For example, a healthy two-week-old kitten will sleep often and get up only to nurse, whereas a healthy six-week-old kitten should have a lot of energy. If you have any questions about the health of your foster kittens, please contact the foster coordinator, who will be happy to answer your questions.
UPPER RESPIRATORY INFECTION (URI)
Facts about feline URI
Feline URI is similar to the common cold in humans. It's caused by a virus, and stressful environments and situations factor in as well. With supportive care adn rest in a quiet, calm place like a loving home, most cases resolve in 7-14 days.
Signs of a URI
-Sneezing
-Runny nose or nasal congestion
-Red, swollen or runny eyes or squinting
-Coughing or hard swallowing
-Sores )ulcers) on the tongue, lips, nose or roof of the mouth.
-Fever, lack of appetite, hiding and/or decreased energy
URI Treatment Plan
Just like with humans, viral infections aren't cured by antibiotics, even though they might be used for bacterial infections. A cat with URI should be separated from other cats in the household and put in a quiet space where he can recover in a low-stress setting. The cat can gradually be introduced to people and other animals in the household once he's recovered.
In-Home Care of URI
-A low stress room is necessary for the cat to rest, acclimate and recover
-Make sure the cat is eating (when cats get stuffy noses, they can't smell their food well) so offer canned food, warmed gently in the microwave to stimulate appetite.
-Gently clean discharge from nose and eyes with a warm moist cloth at least once daily.
-Administer any prescribed medications as directed the HSMC veterinarian.
NOTE: Always wash hangs after handling sick cats.
Communication with Foster coordinator
Always keep your foster coordinator up to date with any concerns you have about the health of your foster cats.
In addition, contact your foster coordinator immediately if your cat has any of the following signs.
-Not eating for more than 24 hours
-Green or yellow discharge from the nose
-Difficulty breathing, especially panting or breathing through an open mouth
-Depressed or unresponsive
-Vomiting or diarrhea that lasts more than 24 hours
-little or no improvement after a week of home care
Feline URI is similar to the common cold in humans. It's caused by a virus, and stressful environments and situations factor in as well. With supportive care adn rest in a quiet, calm place like a loving home, most cases resolve in 7-14 days.
Signs of a URI
-Sneezing
-Runny nose or nasal congestion
-Red, swollen or runny eyes or squinting
-Coughing or hard swallowing
-Sores )ulcers) on the tongue, lips, nose or roof of the mouth.
-Fever, lack of appetite, hiding and/or decreased energy
URI Treatment Plan
Just like with humans, viral infections aren't cured by antibiotics, even though they might be used for bacterial infections. A cat with URI should be separated from other cats in the household and put in a quiet space where he can recover in a low-stress setting. The cat can gradually be introduced to people and other animals in the household once he's recovered.
In-Home Care of URI
-A low stress room is necessary for the cat to rest, acclimate and recover
-Make sure the cat is eating (when cats get stuffy noses, they can't smell their food well) so offer canned food, warmed gently in the microwave to stimulate appetite.
-Gently clean discharge from nose and eyes with a warm moist cloth at least once daily.
-Administer any prescribed medications as directed the HSMC veterinarian.
NOTE: Always wash hangs after handling sick cats.
Communication with Foster coordinator
Always keep your foster coordinator up to date with any concerns you have about the health of your foster cats.
In addition, contact your foster coordinator immediately if your cat has any of the following signs.
-Not eating for more than 24 hours
-Green or yellow discharge from the nose
-Difficulty breathing, especially panting or breathing through an open mouth
-Depressed or unresponsive
-Vomiting or diarrhea that lasts more than 24 hours
-little or no improvement after a week of home care
Ringworm
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Background: Despite its name, ringworm is a fungal infection that causes alopecia/crusts/redness of the skin. It is contagious to other animals, as well as to people. The most common ringworm species affecting cats is Microsporum canis.
Transmission: Primarily through direct contact with an infected animal. Secondarily through fomite transmission. Rarely through environmental contamination. However, it’s important to note that ringworm is very durable in the environment and can readily contribute to fomite transmission through contaminated grooming tools, contaminated bedding, or by human clothing and hands.
Transmission: Primarily through direct contact with an infected animal. Secondarily through fomite transmission. Rarely through environmental contamination. However, it’s important to note that ringworm is very durable in the environment and can readily contribute to fomite transmission through contaminated grooming tools, contaminated bedding, or by human clothing and hands.
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recognizing ringowrm
A combined technique using Wood’s lamp and direct examination can provide point-of-case diagnosis for most ringworm cases. Ringworm PCR may be needed for highly suspect cases that have suspicious lesions and/or a known history of ringworm exposure but are negative on Wood’s lamp and direct examination.
Visual examination of the fur and skin – focusing on the face, toes, inner and outer ears, and paws - followed by a Wood’s lamp examination is the first step. Following up with a direct examination of fur to document active infection on suspect animals is the second step.
Lesions in the fur or skin seen on visual exam which are suspicious for ringworm infection include:
- Fur loss or broken, brittle hairs or whiskers
- Red, inflamed skin
- Scaling or crusting (“flakiness”) or scabs of the skin
- Itchy skin, especially where lesions are location
Visual examination of the fur and skin – focusing on the face, toes, inner and outer ears, and paws - followed by a Wood’s lamp examination is the first step. Following up with a direct examination of fur to document active infection on suspect animals is the second step.
Lesions in the fur or skin seen on visual exam which are suspicious for ringworm infection include:
- Fur loss or broken, brittle hairs or whiskers
- Red, inflamed skin
- Scaling or crusting (“flakiness”) or scabs of the skin
- Itchy skin, especially where lesions are location
treatment
A combination of topical and oral treatments is used to clear the infection as rapidly as possible. Topical treatment kills spores on the hair coat; oral treatment kills spores in the hair follicle. Topical treatment helps reduce environmental contamination by limiting the number of spores infected animals shed between applications. Oral treatment cures the animal of infection from inside-out.
Topical treatment with Malaseb (or VetraSeb) shampoo 2-3 times per week until animal is cleared:
Additional topical focal treatment:
1. For areas that are harder to treat (face, ears), add in topical spot treatment once daily.
a. Carefully apply 1-2% miconazole or terbinafine topical ointment to lesions in these areas. Commercial preparations include Monistat and Lamisil.
2. Ensure that topical focal treatments are not used as sole therapy for affected animals.
Oral treatment with Itrafungol (refer to program veterinarian for dosing) for a 21-day course:
Pulse therapy using oral Itrafungol solution (refer to program veterinarian for dosing) once daily on alternating weeks for 3 treatment cycles. A total of 21 days of actual treatment is provided.
Provide Itrafungol to all animals requiring treatment.
This medication can be used in kittens as small as 0.5 lbs.
Use with caution in pregnant/lactating cats.
Offer with a small meal of canned food to enhance absorption.
Kittens should be weighed weekly to accurately adjust their Itrafungol dosage.
Topical treatment with Malaseb (or VetraSeb) shampoo 2-3 times per week until animal is cleared:
- Shake the bottle of Malaseb.
- Wear protective clothing and/gloves.
- Ideally, use a flea comb to remove broken hairs from the animal’s coat before starting.
- Dilute Malaseb to a 1:4 ratio with warm water. Try to soak the coat all the way to the skin.
- Apply for a contact time of 3 minutes.
- Use a cottonball or small rag to apply diluted Malaseb around the eyes, mouth, on and inside the ears as these
are common sites of lesions. - Rinse and dry the animal.
- Prevent hypothermia by wrapping the animal in a dry towel or blanket after bathing.
Additional topical focal treatment:
1. For areas that are harder to treat (face, ears), add in topical spot treatment once daily.
a. Carefully apply 1-2% miconazole or terbinafine topical ointment to lesions in these areas. Commercial preparations include Monistat and Lamisil.
2. Ensure that topical focal treatments are not used as sole therapy for affected animals.
Oral treatment with Itrafungol (refer to program veterinarian for dosing) for a 21-day course:
Pulse therapy using oral Itrafungol solution (refer to program veterinarian for dosing) once daily on alternating weeks for 3 treatment cycles. A total of 21 days of actual treatment is provided.
Provide Itrafungol to all animals requiring treatment.
This medication can be used in kittens as small as 0.5 lbs.
Use with caution in pregnant/lactating cats.
Offer with a small meal of canned food to enhance absorption.
Kittens should be weighed weekly to accurately adjust their Itrafungol dosage.
Quarantine
Its very important to keep your pets and you safe to take proper quarantine protocols when it comes to highly contagious fungi like ringworm.
In some situations, environmental decontamination is difficult as the organism is extremely hardy and resistant to many common household cleaners. Rooms without carpeting, furniture/fabric window coverings etc. are ideal housing options for your kitten. Vacuum cleaners, pet carriers, leashes, collars, and grooming equipment can all become contaminated during routine cleaning. Spores can also travel on the clothing, hands, skin of caretakers. We recommend caretakers of ringworm positive cats wear gloves and a protective smock/gown that are washed/changed between interactions in addition to thorough handwashing.
In some situations, environmental decontamination is difficult as the organism is extremely hardy and resistant to many common household cleaners. Rooms without carpeting, furniture/fabric window coverings etc. are ideal housing options for your kitten. Vacuum cleaners, pet carriers, leashes, collars, and grooming equipment can all become contaminated during routine cleaning. Spores can also travel on the clothing, hands, skin of caretakers. We recommend caretakers of ringworm positive cats wear gloves and a protective smock/gown that are washed/changed between interactions in addition to thorough handwashing.
Fleas
Fleas are small parasitic bugs that seek a host animal, and can cause severe itching, discomfort, and anemia. Kittens' bodies are so small and at an increased risk of flea anemia due to the loss of blood from the fleas feeding. For this reason, flea infestations should be taken seriously and treatment should not be delayed. HSMC always wants to make sure all of our animals in our foster program and flea free at all times.
kittens under 2 pounds
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Kittens under 2 pounds should receive a flea bath at the first sign of fleas. Check the kitten for fleas by combing through the fur with your fingers or with a flea comb. You may see active, live fleas which will appear as fast-moving, small, dark brown bugs that quickly dart through the fur, seeking refuge in the cat's face, belly, and armpits. Look for flea dirt, which is a sign that the kitten has fleas--even if you don't see live bugs. Flea dirt looks like small black flecks of dirt, and will be present along the base of the fur. If fleas or flea dirt are present, treat the kitten for fleas right away.
Never use a topical chemical treatment on a neonatal kitten, as this may be toxic to a young kitten. Instead, you will need to provide the kitten with a bath. Treat Fleas With A Dish Soap BathA gentle bath with dish soap will help to kill the live fleas and wash away the larva and flea dirt. Exercise caution when bathing the kitten, as baths can be traumatic to a kitten if done incorrectly. Here are some tips for providing a kitten with a dish soap bath:
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Topical flea medication
HSMC topical flea medication of choice is a prescription flea medication called REVOLUTION. All animals large enough to receive revolution are treated upon intake at HSMC. If your foster cat is living with you longer than thirty days make sure a second treatment is administered. Contact your foster coordinator for supplies.
What does revolution cover
-Fleas
-Heartworms
-Ear Mites
-Saroptic Mange
-Ticks
What does revolution cover
-Fleas
-Heartworms
-Ear Mites
-Saroptic Mange
-Ticks
Ear Mites
PREVENTATIVE TREATMENT: All cats large enough on intake through HSMC are given REVOLUTION. This topical flea medication treats and controls ear mites. However dirt, wax and residue from the ear mites will still be present in the ears.
CLEAN:Use an ear cleansing solution to remove as much of the dirt, wax, and residue as possible. Do so by placing a few drops of the solution into the ear, then gently rubbing the ear for 10-15 seconds to allow the solution to break up the discharge. Use a dry cotton ball or gauze pad to gently swab the moist residue out of the ear and repeat as needed.
ADDITIONAL TREATMENT:Signs the ear mites are still alive and need continued treatment are scratching at ears, or shaking head from side to side.
WHAT ARE EARMITES: Ear mites are a microscopic pest that is transmitted from animal to animal, and they can cause a dark, waxy residue that resembles coffee grounds in the ear canal. Though ear mites are extremely small, their movement can be perceived with magnification.
CLEAN:Use an ear cleansing solution to remove as much of the dirt, wax, and residue as possible. Do so by placing a few drops of the solution into the ear, then gently rubbing the ear for 10-15 seconds to allow the solution to break up the discharge. Use a dry cotton ball or gauze pad to gently swab the moist residue out of the ear and repeat as needed.
ADDITIONAL TREATMENT:Signs the ear mites are still alive and need continued treatment are scratching at ears, or shaking head from side to side.
WHAT ARE EARMITES: Ear mites are a microscopic pest that is transmitted from animal to animal, and they can cause a dark, waxy residue that resembles coffee grounds in the ear canal. Though ear mites are extremely small, their movement can be perceived with magnification.
training
Litterbox
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1. Introduce Litter at the Right TimeNewborn kittens need to be stimulated to go to the bathroom, and won't start using the litter box until around 3 weeks of age. Once the kitten has reached 3 weeks, it's appropriate to introduce them to the litter box. Every kitten develops at a different pace, so be patient with the kitten and continue stimulating until you're confident she is using the litter box with regularity.
2. Choose a Litter That is Kitten-Safe Kittens learn and explore in the same way human babies do--with their mouths. This means that you'll need to choose a litter that is safe for kittens so that they don't consume something toxic or dangerous. Kittens should not be given litter products that contain fragrances, harsh chemicals, or clumping properties. While clumping litter might be the standard for adult cats, it's a risk to kittens if ingested, and should not be provided until the kitten is at least 2-3 months old and well accustomed to the litter box. Instead, opt for a natural, pellet-based litter that is less likely to be inhaled or ingested by a young kitten. 3. Choose the Right Box Kittens require an open-top, shallow litter box that is easy for them to access and locate. Eliminate obstacles such as tall or covered boxes and provide something that is easy for them to walk in and out of until they're big enough for an adult litter box. For very young kittens under 8 weeks old, you can even use a cardboard tray (such as those used for canned kitten food) to provide a shallow lip for the tiny kitten to walk over. 4. Choose the Right PlacementEqually important is the placement. Kittens tend to be drawn to corners or other areas away from their main home base, so start by placing the litter box in a corner that is clean from clutter. A puppy pad placed under the box will make clean-up easier, as they can be messy learners. When litter training kittens, you want to make it extremely easy for them to find a litter box at all times. Kittens have a natural drive to cover their waste, and will look for the most convenient space to do so. This means you'll want to keep them near a box throughout the duration of their transition, and avoid providing any messy areas such as piles of laundry where the kitten might develop bad habits. Ideally, a 3-8 week old kitten learning to use a box should be confined to one room so that they can easily find the litter box at all times. For older kittens acclimating to a larger space, it's best to offer multiple options so that the kitten is always within 10 feet of a litter box. 5. Use Positive ReinforcementKittens do well with positive reinforcement--not punishment. Provide praise when kittens use the box correctly! If the kitten uses an area outside of the box, immediately clean and disinfect the area to avoid scent soaking or scent associations. If the kitten is using bedding or laundry, keep these items off the floor. If a kitten is frequently using the same location, place a litter box in the location. In some cases, switching to a new litter or using a product like Kitten Attract can help kittens who are truly struggling to understand the box. 6. Keep it CleanNo one wants to use a dirty toilet, and cats are no different! Clean the box throughout the day (once a day at a bare minimum) to encourage them to continue forming good habits. A clean box is more pleasant for you and for them, and will keep them coming back every time they need to use the bathroom. |
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hand biting
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Kittens are budding micro-panthers with a strong instinct to practice their hunting skills...and that includes BITING! But just because these fierce little felines have an instinct to bite does not mean that have to be biting YOU. In this video, I share 6 effective and easy tips for getting kittens not to bite you and your hands.
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Getting ready for adoption
Approximately 1-3 days before your foster kittens are spayed or neutered, your foster coordinator and adoption coordinator will be in touch with you about getting their Pawlytics profile up to date and ready to make that switch from "medical hold" status to "adoptable". This will automatically publish their profile on petfinder and make it easy for eager potential adopters to locate them and fill out an application.
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Photos & Videos
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Writing a Bio
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| foster_kitten_handbook.pdf |
Contact us
Adoption Coordinator
Linda Francisco
[email protected]
360-581-9490
Cat Foster Coordinator
[email protected]
Program Director
Katherine Johnson
[email protected]
253-224-5880
Linda Francisco
[email protected]
360-581-9490
Cat Foster Coordinator
[email protected]
Program Director
Katherine Johnson
[email protected]
253-224-5880
