WElcome to fostering
Dear Foster volunteer,
You are about to embark on a memorable live-saving adventure! Thank you for opening your home and heart to orphan kittens. Kittens younger than eight weeks old are the most at-risk population in our community.
Fostering orphaned kittens is a rewarding process that saves hundreds of lives in our community each year, and we could not do it without you! In this manual, you will find helpful tips to ensure success. Orphaned kittens require consistent love and attention that is difficult to provide in a shelter environment. These kittens are typically placed in foster homes until they are big enough to undergo spay/neuter surgery at 2 lbs or roughly 2 months of age. We prefer fosters to care for more than one kitten at a time to help promote socialization and normal behavioral growth. When kittens are unable to have appropriate social interaction with other kittens it can stunt proper socialization and lead to behavioral problems. Multiple kittens are not only fun, they can also self-entertain.
There are several requirements to be the perfect foster for this type of animal. If the requirements included in the following section do not work well with your current schedule, please let us know. We can help you find a foster situation that will work best for you!
You are about to embark on a memorable live-saving adventure! Thank you for opening your home and heart to orphan kittens. Kittens younger than eight weeks old are the most at-risk population in our community.
Fostering orphaned kittens is a rewarding process that saves hundreds of lives in our community each year, and we could not do it without you! In this manual, you will find helpful tips to ensure success. Orphaned kittens require consistent love and attention that is difficult to provide in a shelter environment. These kittens are typically placed in foster homes until they are big enough to undergo spay/neuter surgery at 2 lbs or roughly 2 months of age. We prefer fosters to care for more than one kitten at a time to help promote socialization and normal behavioral growth. When kittens are unable to have appropriate social interaction with other kittens it can stunt proper socialization and lead to behavioral problems. Multiple kittens are not only fun, they can also self-entertain.
There are several requirements to be the perfect foster for this type of animal. If the requirements included in the following section do not work well with your current schedule, please let us know. We can help you find a foster situation that will work best for you!
Are You a Foster Candidate?
TIME
Are you able to devote the required time daily?
Are you able to transport your foster animal to appropriate locations for wellness exams, vaccinations and any unseen emergencies?
SPACE
Are you able to separate your foster animals from your household pets for at least two weeks to protect them from illnesses and allow for proper adjustment period?
Are you able to handle cleaning procedures such as washing hands after every encounter and cleaning and disinfecting the dogs’ quarters routinely?
Are you able to handle any potential home damage (carpet, clothing, and/or furniture) associated with animals?
CARE
Are you prepared to handle sickness or possible death of your foster animal?
Are you able to emotionally handle letting go of the foster animal after becoming attached once their foster period is over?
Are you able to handle the potential of foster animals carrying illness that could affect your household animals / family?
If you’re able to do all these things, then you are ready to become a foster parent!
Are you able to devote the required time daily?
Are you able to transport your foster animal to appropriate locations for wellness exams, vaccinations and any unseen emergencies?
SPACE
Are you able to separate your foster animals from your household pets for at least two weeks to protect them from illnesses and allow for proper adjustment period?
Are you able to handle cleaning procedures such as washing hands after every encounter and cleaning and disinfecting the dogs’ quarters routinely?
Are you able to handle any potential home damage (carpet, clothing, and/or furniture) associated with animals?
CARE
Are you prepared to handle sickness or possible death of your foster animal?
Are you able to emotionally handle letting go of the foster animal after becoming attached once their foster period is over?
Are you able to handle the potential of foster animals carrying illness that could affect your household animals / family?
If you’re able to do all these things, then you are ready to become a foster parent!
TYPES OF DOGS NEEDING FOSTER HOMES
HSMC does not currently have a physical shelter location so all HSMC pets are located at foster homes. So there is no reason a dog is in foster besides they are waiting for their forever home. Before opening your home for a foster dog begin thinking of the basic categories of dogs and what best suits your lifestyle.
Shy
Puppies too young for spay/netuer surgery may need extra time in foster while they grow before being placed up for adoption.
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getting ready
PREPARING THE HOUSE
NEEDED SUPPLIES
HSMC will provide you with virtually all the supplies you will need. Supplies that you may wish to obtain include
CRATE:
FOOD:
WATER BOWL: Please use ceramic/porcelain or stainless steel bowls and NOT plastic, as plastic is difficult to disinfect due to its porosity. The heavier the bowl the better to not tip over.
FOOD BOWLS:
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BLANKETS AND BEDDING: Microfleece is the best material for small kittens. It’s soft, like Mom’s fur and it traps their own body heat. There are many inexpensive micro fleece baby blankets and bedding material out there. We will provide towels and if available, blankets.
CLEANING, BATHING, DISINFECTING:
NEEDED SUPPLIES
HSMC will provide you with virtually all the supplies you will need. Supplies that you may wish to obtain include
CRATE:
FOOD:
WATER BOWL: Please use ceramic/porcelain or stainless steel bowls and NOT plastic, as plastic is difficult to disinfect due to its porosity. The heavier the bowl the better to not tip over.
FOOD BOWLS:
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BLANKETS AND BEDDING: Microfleece is the best material for small kittens. It’s soft, like Mom’s fur and it traps their own body heat. There are many inexpensive micro fleece baby blankets and bedding material out there. We will provide towels and if available, blankets.
CLEANING, BATHING, DISINFECTING:
Children and foster dogs
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Keeping interactions between foster dogs and children safe
Having a family and fostering a dog can be a fun experience for both you and your children. Of upmost importance to any foster family is keeping the interactions between your children and your foster dog safe, calm and happy.This can be easy to do by following a few simple guidelines and educating your children on how to properly interact with your new foster dog. This short video can get you started on learning how to do all this, and more. |
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common problems
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Are you struggling with these common problems while training a rescue dog? In this video, Erica covers advice for bringing home a resume dog, and how you can adopt a rescue dog to quickly acclimate them into your household.
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medical concerns
UPPER RESPIRATORY INFECTION (URI)
Facts about feline URI
Feline URI is similar to the common cold in humans. It's caused by a virus, and stressful environments and situations factor in as well. With supportive care adn rest in a quiet, calm place like a loving home, most cases resolve in 7-14 days.
Signs of a URI
-Sneezing
-Runny nose or nasal congestion
-Red, swollen or runny eyes or squinting
-Coughing or hard swallowing
-Sores )ulcers) on the tongue, lips, nose or roof of the mouth.
-Fever, lack of appetite, hiding and/or decreased energy
URI Treatment Plan
Just like with humans, viral infections aren't cured by antibiotics, even though they might be used for bacterial infections. A cat with URI should be separated from other cats in the household and put in a quiet space where he can recover in a low-stress setting. The cat can gradually be introduced to people and other animals in the household once he's recovered.
In-Home Care of URI
-A low stress room is necessary for the cat to rest, acclimate and recover
-Make sure the cat is eating (when cats get stuffy noses, they can't smell their food well) so offer canned food, warmed gently in the microwave to stimulate appetite.
-Gently clean discharge from nose and eyes with a warm moist cloth at least once daily.
-Administer any prescribed medications as directed the HSMC veterinarian.
NOTE: Always wash hangs after handling sick cats.
Communication with Foster coordinator
Always keep your foster coordinator up to date with any concerns you have about the health of your foster cats.
In addition, contact your foster coordinator immediately if your cat has any of the following signs.
-Not eating for more than 24 hours
-Green or yellow discharge from the nose
-Difficulty breathing, especially panting or breathing through an open mouth
-Depressed or unresponsive
-Vomiting or diarrhea that lasts more than 24 hours
-little or no improvement after a week of home care
Feline URI is similar to the common cold in humans. It's caused by a virus, and stressful environments and situations factor in as well. With supportive care adn rest in a quiet, calm place like a loving home, most cases resolve in 7-14 days.
Signs of a URI
-Sneezing
-Runny nose or nasal congestion
-Red, swollen or runny eyes or squinting
-Coughing or hard swallowing
-Sores )ulcers) on the tongue, lips, nose or roof of the mouth.
-Fever, lack of appetite, hiding and/or decreased energy
URI Treatment Plan
Just like with humans, viral infections aren't cured by antibiotics, even though they might be used for bacterial infections. A cat with URI should be separated from other cats in the household and put in a quiet space where he can recover in a low-stress setting. The cat can gradually be introduced to people and other animals in the household once he's recovered.
In-Home Care of URI
-A low stress room is necessary for the cat to rest, acclimate and recover
-Make sure the cat is eating (when cats get stuffy noses, they can't smell their food well) so offer canned food, warmed gently in the microwave to stimulate appetite.
-Gently clean discharge from nose and eyes with a warm moist cloth at least once daily.
-Administer any prescribed medications as directed the HSMC veterinarian.
NOTE: Always wash hangs after handling sick cats.
Communication with Foster coordinator
Always keep your foster coordinator up to date with any concerns you have about the health of your foster cats.
In addition, contact your foster coordinator immediately if your cat has any of the following signs.
-Not eating for more than 24 hours
-Green or yellow discharge from the nose
-Difficulty breathing, especially panting or breathing through an open mouth
-Depressed or unresponsive
-Vomiting or diarrhea that lasts more than 24 hours
-little or no improvement after a week of home care
Ringworm
Background: Despite its name, ringworm is a fungal infection that causes alopecia/crusts/redness of the skin. It is contagious to other animals, as well as to people. The most common ringworm species affecting cats is Microsporum canis.
Transmission: Primarily through direct contact with an infected animal. Secondarily through fomite transmission. Rarely through environmental contamination. However, it’s important to note that ringworm is very durable in the environment and can readily contribute to fomite transmission through contaminated grooming tools, contaminated bedding, or by human clothing and hands.
Transmission: Primarily through direct contact with an infected animal. Secondarily through fomite transmission. Rarely through environmental contamination. However, it’s important to note that ringworm is very durable in the environment and can readily contribute to fomite transmission through contaminated grooming tools, contaminated bedding, or by human clothing and hands.
recognizing ringowrm
A combined technique using Wood’s lamp and direct examination can provide point-of-case diagnosis for most ringworm cases. Ringworm PCR may be needed for highly suspect cases that have suspicious lesions and/or a known history of ringworm exposure but are negative on Wood’s lamp and direct examination.
Visual examination of the fur and skin – focusing on the face, toes, inner and outer ears, and paws - followed by a Wood’s lamp examination is the first step. Following up with a direct examination of fur to document active infection on suspect animals is the second step.
Lesions in the fur or skin seen on visual exam which are suspicious for ringworm infection include:
- Fur loss or broken, brittle hairs or whiskers
- Red, inflamed skin
- Scaling or crusting (“flakiness”) or scabs of the skin
- Itchy skin, especially where lesions are location
Visual examination of the fur and skin – focusing on the face, toes, inner and outer ears, and paws - followed by a Wood’s lamp examination is the first step. Following up with a direct examination of fur to document active infection on suspect animals is the second step.
Lesions in the fur or skin seen on visual exam which are suspicious for ringworm infection include:
- Fur loss or broken, brittle hairs or whiskers
- Red, inflamed skin
- Scaling or crusting (“flakiness”) or scabs of the skin
- Itchy skin, especially where lesions are location
treatment
A combination of topical and oral treatments is used to clear the infection as rapidly as possible. Topical treatment kills spores on the hair coat; oral treatment kills spores in the hair follicle. Topical treatment helps reduce environmental contamination by limiting the number of spores infected animals shed between applications. Oral treatment cures the animal of infection from inside-out.
Topical treatment with Malaseb (or VetraSeb) shampoo 2-3 times per week until animal is cleared:
Additional topical focal treatment:
1. For areas that are harder to treat (face, ears), add in topical spot treatment once daily.
a. Carefully apply 1-2% miconazole or terbinafine topical ointment to lesions in these areas. Commercial preparations include Monistat and Lamisil.
2. Ensure that topical focal treatments are not used as sole therapy for affected animals.
Oral treatment with Itrafungol (refer to program veterinarian for dosing) for a 21-day course:
Pulse therapy using oral Itrafungol solution (refer to program veterinarian for dosing) once daily on alternating weeks for 3 treatment cycles. A total of 21 days of actual treatment is provided.
Provide Itrafungol to all animals requiring treatment.
This medication can be used in kittens as small as 0.5 lbs.
Use with caution in pregnant/lactating cats.
Offer with a small meal of canned food to enhance absorption.
Kittens should be weighed weekly to accurately adjust their Itrafungol dosage.
Topical treatment with Malaseb (or VetraSeb) shampoo 2-3 times per week until animal is cleared:
- Shake the bottle of Malaseb.
- Wear protective clothing and/gloves.
- Ideally, use a flea comb to remove broken hairs from the animal’s coat before starting.
- Dilute Malaseb to a 1:4 ratio with warm water. Try to soak the coat all the way to the skin.
- Apply for a contact time of 3 minutes.
- Use a cottonball or small rag to apply diluted Malaseb around the eyes, mouth, on and inside the ears as these
are common sites of lesions. - Rinse and dry the animal.
- Prevent hypothermia by wrapping the animal in a dry towel or blanket after bathing.
Additional topical focal treatment:
1. For areas that are harder to treat (face, ears), add in topical spot treatment once daily.
a. Carefully apply 1-2% miconazole or terbinafine topical ointment to lesions in these areas. Commercial preparations include Monistat and Lamisil.
2. Ensure that topical focal treatments are not used as sole therapy for affected animals.
Oral treatment with Itrafungol (refer to program veterinarian for dosing) for a 21-day course:
Pulse therapy using oral Itrafungol solution (refer to program veterinarian for dosing) once daily on alternating weeks for 3 treatment cycles. A total of 21 days of actual treatment is provided.
Provide Itrafungol to all animals requiring treatment.
This medication can be used in kittens as small as 0.5 lbs.
Use with caution in pregnant/lactating cats.
Offer with a small meal of canned food to enhance absorption.
Kittens should be weighed weekly to accurately adjust their Itrafungol dosage.
Fleas
Fleas are small parasitic bugs that seek a host animal, and can cause severe itching, discomfort, and anemia. Kittens' bodies are so small and at an increased risk of flea anemia due to the loss of blood from the fleas feeding. For this reason, flea infestations should be taken seriously and treatment should not be delayed. HSMC always wants to make sure all of our animals in our foster program and flea free at all times.
kittens under 2 pounds
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Kittens under 2 pounds should receive a flea bath at the first sign of fleas. Check the kitten for fleas by combing through the fur with your fingers or with a flea comb. You may see active, live fleas which will appear as fast-moving, small, dark brown bugs that quickly dart through the fur, seeking refuge in the cat's face, belly, and armpits. Look for flea dirt, which is a sign that the kitten has fleas--even if you don't see live bugs. Flea dirt looks like small black flecks of dirt, and will be present along the base of the fur. If fleas or flea dirt are present, treat the kitten for fleas right away.
Never use a topical chemical treatment on a neonatal kitten, as this may be toxic to a young kitten. Instead, you will need to provide the kitten with a bath. Treat Fleas With A Dish Soap BathA gentle bath with dish soap will help to kill the live fleas and wash away the larva and flea dirt. Exercise caution when bathing the kitten, as baths can be traumatic to a kitten if done incorrectly. Here are some tips for providing a kitten with a dish soap bath:
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Topical flea medication
HSMC topical flea medication of choice is a prescription flea medication called REVOLUTION. All animals large enough to receive revolution are treated upon intake at HSMC. If your foster cat is living with you longer than thirty days make sure a second treatment is administered. Contact your foster coordinator for supplies.
What does revolution cover
-Fleas
-Heartworms
-Ear Mites
-Saroptic Mange
-Ticks
What does revolution cover
-Fleas
-Heartworms
-Ear Mites
-Saroptic Mange
-Ticks
Ear Mites
PREVENTATIVE TREATMENT: All cats large enough on intake through HSMC are given REVOLUTION. This topical flea medication treats and controls ear mites. However dirt, wax and residue from the ear mites will still be present in the ears.
CLEAN:Use an ear cleansing solution to remove as much of the dirt, wax, and residue as possible. Do so by placing a few drops of the solution into the ear, then gently rubbing the ear for 10-15 seconds to allow the solution to break up the discharge. Use a dry cotton ball or gauze pad to gently swab the moist residue out of the ear and repeat as needed.
ADDITIONAL TREATMENT:Signs the ear mites are still alive and need continued treatment are scratching at ears, or shaking head from side to side.
WHAT ARE EARMITES: Ear mites are a microscopic pest that is transmitted from animal to animal, and they can cause a dark, waxy residue that resembles coffee grounds in the ear canal. Though ear mites are extremely small, their movement can be perceived with magnification.
CLEAN:Use an ear cleansing solution to remove as much of the dirt, wax, and residue as possible. Do so by placing a few drops of the solution into the ear, then gently rubbing the ear for 10-15 seconds to allow the solution to break up the discharge. Use a dry cotton ball or gauze pad to gently swab the moist residue out of the ear and repeat as needed.
ADDITIONAL TREATMENT:Signs the ear mites are still alive and need continued treatment are scratching at ears, or shaking head from side to side.
WHAT ARE EARMITES: Ear mites are a microscopic pest that is transmitted from animal to animal, and they can cause a dark, waxy residue that resembles coffee grounds in the ear canal. Though ear mites are extremely small, their movement can be perceived with magnification.
TRacking health
weighing cats and kittens
poop
appetite
energy and excercise
Body language
Litterbox
hand biting
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Getting ready for adoption
Approximately 1-3 days before your foster kittens are spayed or neutered, your foster coordinator and adoption coordinator will be in touch with you about getting their Pawlytics profile up to date and ready to make that switch from "medical hold" status to "adoptable". This will automatically publish their profile on petfinder and make it easy for eager potential adopters to locate them and fill out an application.
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Photos & Videos
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Writing a Bio
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DAY ONE
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NEW FOSTERS
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introductions
INTRODUCING STRANGERS
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Introducing your foster dog to a stranger in your home can be fun and easy; some dogs however might be a little shy or get over excited. With a little training and patience, introductions can be positive and allow your foster dog to make a great first impression. This short video, on introducing your foster dog to a stranger at your house, will demonstrate easy and ultimately rewarding steps to help your foster dog greet new people in a safe and relaxed manner.
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The first two weeks
The most important phase that dogs go through when getting out of the shelter and when first in their foster or adoptive home is the “Decompression Phase.” Any change in a dog’s environment or routine will cause some level of stress and it’s our job as their guardian to be patient and guide them through this time…however long it takes.
“People want the dog to fit in and often make the biggest mistakes during this period. They will give the dog too much love, too much training, too much attention…everything that’s too much is TOO MUCH. After the experience of living at the shelter the best thing a dog can get upon getting out is space. Space that will allow the dog to decompress from the emotional stress that dogs incur at our shelter. During that phase they should NOT be bothered too much, NOT be engaged too much and NOT too much should be expected of them. Especially for the first few days…allow the dog to SEE what his new life will be without expecting him to Live this LIFE” ~~~~Robert Cabral- The Decompression Phase- Bound Angels~~~~
All dogs need structure/rules/boundaries for them to feel safe. They thrive on predictable routines. The greatest form of affection we can show our new dog is to fulfill their needs: Their need to eat, their need to have clean water, their need to potty outside, their need to migrate/walk and their need to have a cozy/soft/warm crate (their den) to rest in. Of course you can pet your new dog; you can give him treats and a toy to chew. BUT it’s important to keep all of these things to a minimum for at least the first few weeks.
Imagine you just started a new job. You walk through the huge entrance to the building and you’re standing in the lobby trying to figure out which way to go. You don’t know where your office is. You don’t know where the break room is. You don’t know where the rest room is. And, you don’t know any of your coworkers. You feel lost/overwhelmed/nervous/anxious. Now imagine that same new job BUT as you walk into the building, a coworker walks up you and calmly says “Hi, welcome to XYZ Enterprise, follow me and I will show you around.” They give you the tour, they give you a welcome packet and they show you to your office. How much more relaxed and comfortable would you be in the second scenario? Your co-worker made you feel comfortable by guiding you and giving you information. NOT by hugging you or showering you with affection. That’s exactly the relaxed comfortable feeling you need to create for your foster or newly adopted dog.
“People want the dog to fit in and often make the biggest mistakes during this period. They will give the dog too much love, too much training, too much attention…everything that’s too much is TOO MUCH. After the experience of living at the shelter the best thing a dog can get upon getting out is space. Space that will allow the dog to decompress from the emotional stress that dogs incur at our shelter. During that phase they should NOT be bothered too much, NOT be engaged too much and NOT too much should be expected of them. Especially for the first few days…allow the dog to SEE what his new life will be without expecting him to Live this LIFE” ~~~~Robert Cabral- The Decompression Phase- Bound Angels~~~~
All dogs need structure/rules/boundaries for them to feel safe. They thrive on predictable routines. The greatest form of affection we can show our new dog is to fulfill their needs: Their need to eat, their need to have clean water, their need to potty outside, their need to migrate/walk and their need to have a cozy/soft/warm crate (their den) to rest in. Of course you can pet your new dog; you can give him treats and a toy to chew. BUT it’s important to keep all of these things to a minimum for at least the first few weeks.
- When your dog first arrives, before they even go inside your home, take them for a 20-40 min. walk, depending on their health.
- When you get back to your home, keep your dog leashed and walk them calmly through the front door and while keeping him leashed, walk around your home. NO FREE ROAM.
- Once you have done a quick tour with the dog, take him to his crate area, allow him some water and practice the crate exercises (Crate Training Doc in the files). The crate should be in an area of the house that is neither isolated nor in the middle of everything. You want your new dog to observe you and your family without feeling stressed and overwhelmed.
- With the dog still leashed, walk him to the door that you will be using to take him out to potty and take him out. Bring him back in and put him in his crate. Let him rest. It’s important to establish the routine and structure of the crate straight away.
- After some time, leash the dog and remove him from his crate, hand feed him his meal (great bonding/engagement exercise) and then go outside for a potty break.
- Then back inside for some “out of the crate time” (still leashed). NO rough play, NO wrestling, NO couch, NO beds, NO laps, NO kissy face, NO free roam through the house, NO interactions with any other pets, NO visits from your friends and family, NO trips to Petco and No car rides (other than to the vet). The goal for these first few weeks is to help your dog learn the structure/rules/boundaries of your home.
- After free time, its back outside (still leashed) for potty and then back in for some crate rest.
- Once you put your new dog in his crate, ignore him. Let him rest.
- The first few weeks for our new foster or adopted dog should be very simple. Walks/hand feeding/access to water/potty breaks/limited free time in the house/crate time…repeat.
Imagine you just started a new job. You walk through the huge entrance to the building and you’re standing in the lobby trying to figure out which way to go. You don’t know where your office is. You don’t know where the break room is. You don’t know where the rest room is. And, you don’t know any of your coworkers. You feel lost/overwhelmed/nervous/anxious. Now imagine that same new job BUT as you walk into the building, a coworker walks up you and calmly says “Hi, welcome to XYZ Enterprise, follow me and I will show you around.” They give you the tour, they give you a welcome packet and they show you to your office. How much more relaxed and comfortable would you be in the second scenario? Your co-worker made you feel comfortable by guiding you and giving you information. NOT by hugging you or showering you with affection. That’s exactly the relaxed comfortable feeling you need to create for your foster or newly adopted dog.
Training
As with any and all training, the keys to success are; PATIENCE, CONSISTENCY AND CLEAR COMMUNICATION.
crate Training
- Set up a crate in a corner of the kitchen or living room. We want our dogs to be able to observe us but not be in the middle of all the foot traffic through our house. Avoid having the crate in an area of the house where he is isolated.
- Put soft bedding in the crate and cover all sides but the door with a dark blanket … creating a den-like feel.
- Leash and collar the dog, toss some treats into the crate, guide the dog in saying the word “crate” as he is walking in. When he eats the treat, use the leash to guide him out. Repeat 5-10 times. This exercise is just to give an initial positive association to simply entering the crate.
- With the dog still leashed, toss treats in the crate, gently guide the dog in while saying “crate” and when he is all the way in, close the door. Wait 3-5min. Open the door and using the leash guide him out. Don’t allow him to barge out, during this exercise, you, the human, control the entering and exiting of the crate. Repeat gradually increasing the time the dog is in the crate.
- Leave the door to the crate open and allow the dog to go in and out on their own. Most dogs will explore a crate that looks inviting, one that is dark and comfy. Put some appropriate chew toys, like Kongs and Nylabones, in the crate to further encourage the dog to relax and spend time in the crate.
- Practice entering and exiting the crate several times and add in longer stays with the door closed.
- If the dog has a tantrum, barks, cries or whines … IGNORE THEM. Don’t talk to them, don’t yell at them, don’t look at them or engage in anyway. As soon as they quiet down, walk over to the crate, say “good boy/girl” in a light tone, not over the top excitement and guide the dog out. Being quiet in the crate is simply a non-negotiable rule. Be careful not to put too much emotion into it. Repeat, slowly adding time in the crate.
- Crate your new dog at night. You should have had the opportunity to practice the above exercises so the crate should be a familiar place for the dog. Have a night time routine something like this;
LEASH TRAINING
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Not only do leashes help keep your foster dogs safe on walks they are also wonderful management and training tools. Used properly they provide an easy and accessible way to train your foster dog indoors and out, resulting in a far more adoptable dog.
In this short class, learn the best tips for training your foster dog to walk properly on leash as well as a few other training scenarios leashes come in handy for. |
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